Service and Repairs Instructions:

Common Tension Button Installation

Cord Lock Shade Removal Procedure

Cord Lock Shade Restringing Procedure

Day/Night Shade Installation Procedure

Day/Night Shade Removal Procedure

Day/Night Shade Restringing Instructions

Specialty Window Covering Tension Button Installation

Winnebago Shade Installation Instructions

Tips On Removing A Valance

Winnebago Shade Removal Instructions

Common Tension Button Installation

The tension button has 2 holes that position away from the mounting surface and a small protruding point opposite the holes that positions against the mounting surface. For shades having 2 or more cords coming from the end cap, 1 cord goes through each hole from the outside to the center of the tension button. Bring the cords below the button and tie a simple knot. For shades with 1 cord coming from the end cap, there are two different methods that both work equally well.

In one method, the cord goes through 1 hole from outside to the center, then down and around the interior barrel and back out the 2nd hole. Tie a large knot so it does not pull through the hole.The placement of the knot must be exact to get the proper tension.

The second method routes the cord from the center through one hole and then back through the second hole to tie a knot in the center.The tension adjustment is then made by rotating the tension button. This method only works if the screw is solid in the wall and won't let the tension button slip. A To Z Window Fashions does not recommend more than r wraps around the tension button.

The length of the cords determines the amount of tension in the shade. Position the knot so that you use the existing screw holes where possible and the tension is just sufficient to allow the shade to maintain any position. Too much tension exerts excessive wear on the cords, tension button, end caps and grommets. Tension on both ends of the shade should be as close to equal as possible. Unequal tension will cause the shade to be uneven horizontally.

Be patient. You may need to tie the knots several times to get the proper tension.
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Cord Lock Shade Removal Procedure

There are 3 basic ways that cord lock shades are installed. In all 3 situations, I raise the shade to within 6"-8" from the top before starting the removal procedure to make it easier to handle.

The most common mounting method is with boxed brackets at each end of the head rail. One side of the box is always hinged so that side will swing open and the shade can be removed through the opening. Unfortunately, there is no standard so you might find the hinged side facing down or toward you. Use a flat blade screw driver to carefully pry the hinged side open. Be careful that the shade doesn't fall if the hinged side is facing down. Quite frequently, a valance is too close to the bracket and the hinged side won't open completely so the shade can be removed. In this situation, the valance must be removed.

Occasionally, the head rail will be mounted by driving 2 to 4 screws vertically through the head rail into the mounting surface. Use the appropriated screw driver to remove the screws. Be careful that the shade doesn't fall unsafely.

The third method uses two to four mounting brackets. They may be screwed into the wall or vertically to an overhead surface. There are two basic types of brackets. The older type has a tab that pivots horizontally to release the back of the head rail and then the head rail is lifted off the front lip of the bracket. These tabs are sometimes very hard to see because they are almost hidden by the head rail. It is also important that you pivot the tab a full 90∫ or the back of the head rail won't release. Newer brackets are spring loaded so the correct procedure is to push the head rail toward the wall until the back of the head rail drops down and then lift the shade off of the front lip. Remove a valance if it is so close to the shade that you can't see or get your hands in easily.
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Cord Lock Shade Restringing Procedure

Cord lock shades may be of several types but the restringing principles are the same for all of them. A cord lock shade may be any of the following types: 1. Horizontal wood, vinyl or aluminum. 2. Pleated night or day/night. 3. Cellular.

Lay the shade on a flat surface, preferably wider than the shade, with the bottom rail facing you. Check the bottom rail to determine how the cord terminates. It will be one of two ways. One method has the cord going through the bottom rail and
tying with a knot large enough to not pull back through the rail. The knot may tie outside of a plug or be covered by a plug. The other method has the knot tied inside the bottom rail either with a knot large enough to not pull back through the bottom hole or sometimes to a small plastic ring. If the knot is tied inside of the bottom rail, then the bottom rail will have to be removed.

The bottom rail can be removed by using a small flat screw driver to carefully remove the end caps. Use a pair of needle nose
pliers to hold the inner rail and use the other hand to slide the outer rail off the inner rail. Some times this can be difficult. I slide a putty knife carefully between the two rails on both sides to break loose any corrosion. Set the end caps and outer rail aside.

You are now ready to start the restring process
1. Check the existing cords to see how they feed through the cord lock and along the head rail.
2. If you are doing a day/night shade, skip down to Step 14.
3. Feed the cord through the cord lock from outside to inside of the head rail.
4. Feed the cord along the head rail to the appropriate hole and down through the bottom of the head rail, sometimes under a ladder tape holder.
5. Feed the cord down through the pleats or slats to the bottom rail. Tip: In a shade with slats, the cord should weave its way down so that the ladder tape rungs are on alternate sides. Use a long needle or a good pair of tweezers. This process can be a little easier if the shade can be hung vertically and fully extended.
6. Tie off the cord appropriately as determined above.
7. Compress the shade completely.
8. Pull all of the slack out of the cord.
9. Look inside of the top rail where you will usually find the shade dimensions given in inches. The width is always given first and the height second.
10. You have to make a choice at this point. Some shades use a condenser tying all of the cords together and having only one cord to raise or lower the shade. In this case, the cord should extend past the cord lock the height of the shade and I usually add 6" for later adjustment. If each cord has its own tassel, the cord should extend below the cord lock the height of the shade plus the distance that you want the tassel to hang below the cord lock when the shade is fully extended.
11. Repeat the process for each cord.
12. Replace the bottom rail and end caps, if necessary.
13. Skip down to Step 26.
14. The main difference with day/night shades is that they have 2 cord locks and some of the cords for the top section
terminate in the center rail and some in the bottom rail for the bottom section. In this case, the cords operating
the top section that terminate in the center rail must be done first.
15. Remove the end caps from the center rail. Make sure there is slack in all the cords above the cord locks and slide the center rail along with the bottom section to one side but not all the way off of the inner rail. Half of the top section cord ends should be exposed.
16. Feed the cord through the cord lock from outside to inside of the head rail.
17. Feed the cord along the head rail to the appropriate hole and down through the bottom of the head rail and through the holes to the center rail.
18. Tie off the cord appropriately.
19. Complete Steps 7-11 above for all of the top section cord on the exposed side.
20. Slide the center rail to the opposite side exposing the other half of the top section cords.
21. Repeat Steps 16-19.
22. Slide the center rail back to its normal position and replace the end caps.
23. You are now ready to replace the bottom section cords which pass straight through the top section to the bottom rail. Remove the bottom rail, if necessary.
24. Repeat Steps 16-19 to replace all of the bottom section cords substituting the word bottom for center when talking about rails.
25. Replace the bottom rail and end caps, if necessary.
26. Compress the shade completely and remove all the slack from the cords.
27. Add the condenser or individual tassels adjusting the cords to the proper length. Tip: A condenser serves 2 purposes.

Day/Night Shade Installation Procedure

Day/Night shades will be installed because they are new or they have been previously removed for repair. If the shades are new, then the valances must usually be removed so that mounting brackets can be installed. These brackets are usually put on the wall about 1" above the window frame. They can also be mounted on the ceiling or under side of a cabinet if appropriate. There are always at least two brackets and three or even four brackets are used on wider shades. The shade manufacturer will provide their recommended number of brackets. If the shade has been removed for repair, then a decision must be made about removing the valance based on the room available and the difficulty of the installation

Here are some installation suggestions:
1. Tie a cord around the center of the shade so that the top section can open only 4 to 12 inches before removing the rubber bands and unwinding the cords.
2. Place the shade on the front lip of the mounting brackets and move it sideways as necessary to center the shade. At each mounting bracket, place your thumbs on the back bottom side of the top rail and push firmly up and back. There is usually a distinct pop when the top rail seats properly.
2A.This alternate applies if your shade is installed with screws instead of mounting brackets. Center the shade and install the screws in the original holes if possible.
3. Pull down on strings on both ends at the same time to remove any slack and get the shade hanging close to level. It's best to raise the shade completely at this point and retie the cord in the center.
4. Decide where the cord tension buttons will be mounted. If this was a repair, then use the existing screw hole. If it's a new installation, the cord tension button may be mounted on the wall or the valance if it extends below the window frame.
5. Choose either side to install the tension buttons, usually the side that is most difficult to reach. Tie a simple knot in the cord adjusting the length to place a minimal amount of tension on the cord and screw the tension button to the wall. The tension button has a small projection on one side that goes against the wall and the other side has an indentation for the screw head. Make sure the cord(s) are plumb and mount the tension button at least 1" below the window frame.
6. Mount the opposite tension button in the same manor. If there is only one cord coming out of each side, then rotate the tension button so the cord winds around the barrel of the tension button. If you have more than 2 complete turns of cord, then retie the knot to shorten the cord.Note: Common Tension Button Installation is a more detailed discussion of this procedure.
7. Untie, but do not remove, the cord from Step 1. Test the tension by raising and lowering the shade. In most cases, there will not be enough tension and the shade will not stay in place.
8. Change the tension by adjusting the cord length the same as in Steps 5 & 6.
9. The goal is to have the same tension on all cords and be just enough tension that the top half of the shade stays up when you raise and lower the bottom half of the shade. This may require making several minor adjustments to cord length on each side. This may be done by re-tying the cord knot or, assuming the tension is too loose, loosening the tension button screw, rotating the tension button and tightening the screw again.
10. Replace the valance and remove the cord used to tie the shade closed during installation and adjustment.
11. Cut off the excess cord but leave about 2" beyond the knot.

Problem: The spring in the top rail of some shades can move and some movement is tolerable as long as the spring does not get all the way against one side so that it cannot stretch. If this occurs during any part of the installation, the spring must be centered again. Use the tie cord to tie all 3 rails together. Pull the cord(s) from one side of the bottom rail until you feel the spring stop at a grommet. Pull the cord(s) from the other side of the bottom rail keeping track of exactly how much cord was pulled until you feel the spring stop at the opposite grommet. Go back to the first side and pull back half of the measured cord.
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Day/Night Shade Removal Procedure

Day/Night shades are only installed one of two ways; Mounted in brackets or screwed directly to the wall or overhead panel. In most RV's, shades are installed behind a valance of some kind so it may be necessary to use a flashlight to see which method was used. Clear room to work and then look at the top rail to determine which of the following installation methods was used.

In many older RV's, the shades were made by EDI, a company no longer in business, who used a wood top rail. These shades, in my experience, have always been installed with horizontal screws into the wall. The only way to remove them is to remove the valance first to have direct access to the screw heads. Remove the screws and the shade will come away from the wall. Remove the cord tension buttons at the bottom corners

If the top rail is metal, you need to determine if brackets or screws were used to mount the shade. Raise the shade about 2/3's of the way to the top. You may have to look on either the front or back side of the shade.

If screws were used, look at each end of the top rail. Occasionally three screws will be used but usually there are only two screws and you will find them 2"-3" from the end and outside of where the outer cords come through the top rail. Remove the screws and then the cord tension buttons. The shade should remove easily.

If mounting brackets are used, you need to determine whether the flexible side of the bracket is on the wall side or valance side of the top rail. Use a flat screwdriver with as long a shank as possible, get the blade between the bracket and the top rail and twist it to release the top rail from the holding tab. The shade is now hanging in the front lip of the bracket. There are two types of brackets used on these shades and there isn't any sure way for you to tell which kind was used on your installation. First, try to pull the top rail toward you and see if it will come off the front of the bracket. If this doesn't work, then push the top rail toward the holding tab while putting downward pressure on the top rail. They don't always come loose easily but one of these two methods should work. Remove the cord tension buttons.

Micro Day/Night shades: These shades are the same as the above shades except the pleats are only 5/8" wide in stead of 1". They may have the same type of bracket as described above but also sometimes use a simple "U" shaped clip. These clips are easy to identify on visual inspection. Use a flat screwdriver to release the front side of the clips and then just roll the top rail out of the clip.

Sometimes, a combination of brackets and screws are used. Most Winnebago RV's use this method

Cord retainer buttons: There are several shapes, styles and colors used but they all serve the same purpose and so may be interchangeable. My comments here are about their location. Many times I find them on the back side of the vertical potion
of the valance and can be very difficult to remove. I have several offset ratchet and stubby screwdrivers that I can usually make work. If you determine the valance must be removed to install the new or repaired shade, remove the button after the
valance is off the wall.

Valances: I can almost always remove a Day/Night shade without removing the valance but removing the valance can make the job easier and is necessary for at least half of the reinstallations. They are almost always installed with screws using corner brackets. In all but rare instances the screws in the top of the valance are accessible with the shade in place.
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Day/Night Shade Restringing Instructions

Suggested Tools:

Directions:
1. Lay the shade on a table with the bottom toward you and the rail knobs (inside surface) facing up.
2. Use a small slotted screwdriver to remove all of the end caps. Keep in mind the location of each end cap since they are not all the same thickness. Check the end caps from the bottom rail to be sure the cords haven't cut a slot in them. If so, they will have to be replaced. Sometimes they can be switched with the other end caps.
3. Check the rail knobs. If they are attached with screws, they will have to be removed now. If they are attached with pop rivets, they might not have to be removed. Proceed to Step 4 before deciding. Ignore this step if you have fingertip rails.
4. Remove both the top and bottom rails by sliding them sideways. They may or may not move easily. If necessary, hold one end of the material & plastic inner rail with a pair of needle nose pliers. The bottom rail is sometimes stubborn if the knobs are pop riveted or if the shade fabric is stuck to the aluminum rail. If the bottom rail comes off, proceed to Step 6. If not proceed to Step 5
5. The knobs will have to be removed by drilling out the pop rivets. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the rivet head and drill only deep enough to remove the rivet head. Work the knobs off the rivet shaft carefully. Use some cutting dikes to cut the rivet shaft off as close to the rail as possible. Use a hammer & Punch to drive the rest of the rivet shaft inside the rail.
6. Separate the top and bottom halves of the shade at the center rail by sliding the halves in opposite directions. You may have to use the same procedure with the knobs as above. Set the top & bottom rails aside and lay the shade parts back in the original position and pull the slack out of the cords that are still in place.
7. Check the cord routing to be sure that you can route the new cord in the same pattern. Draw your own sketch if they are routed differently. A Rule Of Thumb is that the cord comes out of the same end of the bottom rail as it comes off of the spring in the top rail.
8. Carefully check all the points where the cords go through the plastic inner rails. Make sure that the grommets are all in place and don't have any rough edges. If any grommets are loose or missing, they will have to be replaced or the cord will wear through quickly. I use a 2 piece 3/16î brass grommet. I have never been successful at replacing the existing grommets if they are the 1 piece pressed-in plastic design.
9. You are now ready to replace the cord and should decide if you are going to replace all of the cords or just the one that is broke. I always replace them all because my time to do the job is worth more than the cord and I don't want to take a chance on doing the job twice in a short time.
10. Compress both halves of the shade. Hold with rubber bands if necessary.
11. Replace the cords one at a time according to the diagram. Use a fish tool provided or a needle will work or the cord can be fed through the holes by hand. Start at the bottom and end up at the spring in the top rail. Secure the cord at the spring with a double simple knot and the crimped cord sleeve. Center the spring and then the amount of cord that comes out the bottom end cap should be equal to the height of the shade ( this measurement is usually on the top rail) + at least 6"
12. Put the 2 halves of the shade together at the center rail. Don't worry about the position of the spring(s) in the top rail yet. Replace the end caps.
13. Pull all the slack out of the cords and replace the bottom rail being careful to be sure the cords are routed out the correct ends. Feed the cords through the end caps and replace the end caps in the rail.
14. Replace the knobs if you have them.
15. Center the spring(s) on the inner top rail and pull all the slack out of the cords. Replace the top rail carefully to not move the spring(s) any more than necessary. The springs in some shades may be permanently anchored with a pop rivet. Replace the end caps.
16. Install new cord retainers on the cords coming out of the bottom rail but do not tie the knots at the ends of the cords.
17. You are now ready to test the shade. Have a 2nd person hold some down pressure on the cord retainers while you move the shade down and back up. If the shade works smoothly, you are ready to install it back in the RV. If not, retrace your work to determine the problem. The first place I usually look is in the center rail. Correct the problem and test the shade again.
18. Install and adjust the shade according to the directions in your kit.
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Specialty Window Covering Tension Button Installation

The tension button has 2 pieces that compress together to hold the cord. For shades having 2 or more cords coming from the end cap, 1 cord goes on each side of the center column before putting the 2 halves together. For shades having only 1 cord coming from each end cap, the cord goes down the side of the center column, loops around the column and back up the other side. Tie a knot in the cord(s). Put the 2 halves together. Attach the tension buttons loosely using the existing screw holes. You now have 2 options. The easiest one is to pull the cord(s) to create the proper tension. Tighten the holding screw to compress the 2 pieces together and hold the cord tight. This method works only if the screw holds tight and compresses the cord(s) enough to keep them from slipping. The 2nd method is to use trial and error to retie the knot on each side until the proper tension is attained. Be patient. You may need to tie the knots several times to get the proper tension.

The length of the cords determines the amount of tension in the shade. The tension should be just sufficient to allow the shade to maintain any position. Too much tension exerts excessive wear on the cords, end caps and grommets. Tension on both ends of the shade should be as close to equal as possible. Unequal tension will cause the shade to be uneven horizontally.
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Tips On Removing A Valance

Valances are almost always mounted with screws. It is rare to see them mounted with staples. I use a battery operated power driver with extensions. I have 2î, 4î, 6î & 12î extensions and use whatever is appropriate. Vertical sides on a valence are usually attached with some combination of angle brackets. I have occasionally seen a screw driven in from the bottom at an angle. I've also seen screws go horizontally all the way through to the wall and then covered by some kind of button. The top section may have angle brackets or simply have screws driven into the overhead. These vertical screws may be either in front of or behind the shade. If they are under the shade, then you have no choice but to get the shade out first and then move the screws when the valance is reinstalled.
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Winnebago Shade Installation Instructions

1. The installation process is not particularly difficult but does take some time and a lot of patience.
2. Tie a string so that the shade can be opened about 6-8 inches (enough so that your hands can work comfortably under the valance).
3. Start the mounting screws in the top rail. Typically a few inches in from each end. Be sure they are solidly in place but not inserted so far that they prevent the shade from moving sideways when mounted in the plastic bracket(s).
4. Insert the shade inside of the valance.
5. Let the bottom and center rails drop as far as the tie string allows.
6. Make sure that the tie string is not in the way and hang the front of the top rail on the lip of the mounting bracket(s).
7. Use your thumbs to roll the back side of the top rail into the catch at the back of the mounting bracket.
8. Carefully move the top rail sideways to get the shade centered on the window.
9. Drive the mounting screws into the mounting surface.
10. Raise the center and bottom rails up to meet the top rail and retie the tie string. You may need help to hold the shade while you retie the string.
11. Hold the ends of the shade rails and pull all of the slack out of the cords being careful not to move the tension spring located inside of the top rail. Be sure that the shade rails are as level as possible.
12. On both sides, use the existing tension button base as a guideline to tie a knot in the end of the cord(s) allowing a small excess for adjustment. It is important at this point that both cords on a side be the same length above the knot.
13. Insert the screw through the tension button and start it into the base. Leave the screw loose enough that the tension button can still be rotated.
14. You will now adjust the tension on the spring in the top rail. The tension varies directly with the length of the cord(s). The shorter the cord(s), the more tension that is put on the spring, the harder it is to raise and lower the shade. Alternately, the longer the cord(s), the less tension on the spring, the easier the shade operates. Your goal is to have just enough tension so that the center rail does not move when you move the bottom rail.
15. Rotate the tension buttons so that the cord winds around the barrel and insert the pins into the holes in the base and tighten the screw. It is not recommended that you have more than 2 complete wraps of cord around the barrel.
16. Test the tension by untying but not removing the tie string. The tension is rarely correct on the first try.
17. Raise both rails to the top and retie the tie string.
18. Make equal adjustments to both tension buttons. Loosen the screws but do not remove them. One at a time, rotate the tension button in the proper direction to lengthen or shorten the cord(s).
19. Repeat steps 15 through 18 until the tension is as described in Step 14. If too much cord is wrapped around the barrel of the tension button, it is possible to bump the cord releasing a loop and allowing the shade to fall. If this situation occurs, return to step 11 and start over. If the shade rails are not quite level, bring the center and bottom rails together and gently level them.

Problem: If the two rails do not come together at both ends, then return to step 12 and make sure that the cords are the same length.

Problem: The spring in the top rail can move and some movement is tolerable as long as the spring does not get all the way against one side so that it cannot stretch. If this occurs during any part of the installation, the spring must be centered again. Use the tie string to tie all 3 rails together. Pull the cord(s) from one side of the bottom rail until you feel the spring stop at a grommet. Pull the cord(s) from the other side of the bottom rail keeping track of exactly how much cord was pulled until you feel the spring stop at the opposite grommet. Go back to the first side and pull back half of the measured cord.
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Winnebago Shade Removal Instructions

1. The shade is usually mounted inside the valence with a plastic bracket and a screw near each end of the top rail.
2. Remove the 2 screws from the top rail. This is sometimes difficult if the original installer used a powerful driver and drove the screws partially or all the way through the inner rail. The screws must be removed.
3. Raise the center and bottom rail as far as possible. Reach up behind the shade with both hands and press on the back of the black bracket to loosen the shade. The top rail can then be pushed toward you to get it off the front lip of the bracket. Older shades may only have 2 or 3 plastic brackets and no screws.
4. Remove the shade from the valance and let it hang down or rest on a low surface.
5. Remove the 2 screws from the tension buttons at the bottom corners of the shade. Winnebago has used several different types of tension buttons in the past.The current version has 2 pieces; the bottom piece is screwed to the wall and the top piece is screwed to the base. The top piece has 4 pegs that match holes in the base and allow it to be rotated a quarter turn at a time when adjusting tension. Be careful here because I've seen 2 different button diameters. The previous style was a 1 piece extended button with 2 cord holes and a single screw through the center attaching it to the wall. Before that, they used a standard button that is common to many shade manufacturers.
6. Keep the removed half of the tension button with the shade. Replace the tension button screws temporarily.
7. Compress all of the pleats and hold them together with a string or rubber bands for transportation for repair.
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